Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Patagonia LOVE.

Hola! Our farewell dinner from Santiago was fabulous. Sarah's friend's mom who lives in Santiago had us over to swim and eat an incredible homemade dinner. She made amazing grilled salmon, fresh salad, two kinds of homemade bread, ziti bake and fresh strawberries and ice cream for dessert. It was all delicious and we had a great time chatting about dogs, motorcycles, traveling and Chilean culture. Thanks Candy and Gonzalo for inviting us into your home for such a nice evening.
View from Shawn's apartment in Santiago
Whiskey the dog
Dinner on the patio.
Candy and Gonzalo's. Beautiful backyard!
Thank you Candy and Gonzalo!
Ready for road trip! Note: it's still dark outside
We have been road tripping since our last post and we've mainly been camping so we have not had consistent internet (good excuse huh?). These past few weeks have been some of the most fun weeks we've had traveling. We drove from Santiago to Bariloche, Argentina where we spent two days just exploring the city, we did not do much there but we're planning on going back. Ali was so excited to be back in a place she had been with her family and it was just as gorgeous as she remembered. So in one day we drove 15 hours, crossed the border and arrived into Argentina!

Border crossing into Argentina
One of our many stops along the drive
Pretty flowers along the road
High five! In Bariloche
Proud to be back in Bariloche,
Raining outside so the owner of the campsite let us make dinner inside. Excited to have hot beverages.
Photo opp.
One of the many places we felt God
From Bariloche we kept on driving with our new buddy Shawn. We have both learned how to drive stick shift since our rental car is manual. Yes, we have both stalled out a few times but we are learning. Shawn is a great teacher even though he has a heart attack almost every time we drive and yells "clutttttch" when we forget, it has been great. We drove from Bariloche to the coast of Argentina where we decided to cook dinner with our camping stove on the beach of the Atlantic Ocean. It was pretty cold out and we got a lot of stares from people passing by. We arrived in El Chalten, Argentina, one of the most beautiful places we've visited. We spent eight days in El Chalten hiking and rock climbing. Ali went climbing for her first time and did great! Sarah climbed again for her first time since she hurt her tailbone and had a blast. We slept in our tent in the backyard of this couple's house named Juan and we don't remember his wife's name but they were so nice and we got to practice our Spanish with them.

Learning to drive stick. Hey,  keep your eyes on the road please. And, clluuuuutcchhhh!
Beach front dinner
El Chalten trekking
El Chalten beauty
Sweet sunshine
"Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better." -Albert Einstein
Israeli wrapping tefillin to pray at Mt. Fitz Roy 
Sunrise on Mt. Fitz Roy
Shawn trying to fix Ali's headlamp
One of our new friends (Mike from New York) that we met in El Chalten rode with us to Puerto Natales since he was also heading to do the W trek in Torres del Paine. Patagonia (southern Chile and Argentina) has been beautiful overall. The mountains, lagunas, lush greenery, glaciers and all of it have been mind blowing and with every few steps there's even more to see. We arrived with Mike and Shawn in Puerto Natales on March 5th, went to a 3:00 PM informational session at Erratic Rock Hostel, rented gear and left for Torres del Paine two days later to start trekking. We were loaded up with food for five days (lots of oatmeal, beans and pasta), our sleeping bags, our dry clothes (you can experience all seasons in one day in the park so we made sure we were prepared), sleeping bags, stove, pot, comfy shoes, hiking poles, and of course chocolate. Our overall experience was unbelievable. This was the longest trek that either of us have ever done. There were times that were difficult physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually but being out there with no way to get back except for hiking really doesn't offer many options except to keep going. So, that's what we did, one foot in front of the other. We hiked West to East so the first piece of unreal nature we got to see was Glacier Grey and we ended with the Torres (towers).

Needing to pack for the trek but wanting to hang out. That's Mike.
Ali testing out her new, warm, rented sleeping bag
Our bags are packed and we're ready to trek
Puma attack aftermath (Ali is protesting this photo being posted)
Just starting out the W. Smiles and feeling excited!
Reflection on the still water.
Glacier Grey
We are the luckiest
The first night we slept in Campamento Grey where we met some really fun Chilenos that live in Santiago and we are hoping to connect with them when we go back to Santiago. The weather was cold but we were happy to drink hot chocolate at the end of the day. Day two we hiked to Campamento Italiano where we crossed paths with our friend Alex who we had met camping in El Chalten so all three of us hiked Valle Frances (the French Valley) together on day three. Alex had ripped his bright red pants so his evening activity consisted of sewing his pants back up while we supported and laughed at him. We slept at this site for two nights and had a great spot, posted up next to this tree that we used to hang all of our belongings also known as The Hanging Tree. Day four we hiked to Campamento Torres which was a very long day, about eight hours of hiking. We experienced the strongest winds of any of our days in the park, along with a lot of uphill hiking. We arrived at the campsite and were ready to change into dry clothes and sip on a hot beverage. Even though the weather was cold and windy and sometimes rainy we still got so sweaty because of all the hiking so then when you stop moving you're just cold because your clothes are wet. We enjoyed a good dinner of couscous, leftover spaghetti, beans and tomato sauce. Day five we were planning on waking up early to hike up to the towers together but Sarah chose to sleep in and hiked later. Or as she will say, and Ali will definitely agree, it's more that it is usually really difficult for Sarah to get out of her warm sleeping bag and have to venture back into the cold. So Ali hiked up (about 45 minutes), returned to campsite, we packed up and then Ali hiked down to catch the earlier bus back to town while Sarah made her way up to the towers. The towers are two huge mountains that are very narrow and look almost like buildings. They were pretty gigantic, with some of the time having cloud coverage but there were moments where the towers could be fully viewed. Ali got down in time to catch the 2:00 PM bus back to town, which was about a 1-1.5 hour ride where she bumped into Alex and some other friends from the trek.

Sunset on Glacier Grey
One foot in front of the other. We are doing the W!
Green luscious beauty. Good place to stop, take a look around and pray.
Us with Alex and his ripped pants
Ali loves this moss. Do you see the fairy? 
Top of the French Valley. The clouds decided to move so we could get a view. Thanks clouds!
A magical place
Sound of the water, view of the mountains.  Doesn't get much better
Our hanging tree
The yellow flower that reminded Sarah of her cousin Jenna. Love you Jenna.
Bridge crossing with only one hand rail. Seguro (safe).
The towers with slight cloud coverage
Expressing gratitude and love. Nature is all around and a gift we are given so why not enjoy it
View hiking down from the towers to the bus
Sarah got to the end of the hike where she took the mini bus at 4:30 to the park station to catch the big bus that wasn't leaving until 8:00 PM. So, do the math and that gives about three hours of wait time at the park station. Sarah made her self comfortable by the fire and sat there for about an hour but then went outside for some fresh air and ended up hitch hiking back to Puerto Natales with two wonderful Argentinian ladies, instead of having to wait for two more hours. They even gave her a pastry and she got to practice her Spanish and learned all about Argentinean fish. Sarah made it back in time to join Ali, Alex, Shawn and some other folks for dinner. Success!

Our top 10 list of memories and moments on the trek:

1. Seeing the after affect of a puma attack on a guanaco, intestines on the ground and blood coming out of its head. (A guanaco is kind of like a llama). We actually saw this before the hike, our bus driver pulled over to show us this and then explained everything to us as if he was a crime scene investigator.
2. Drinking fresh glacier water all day along the trail. And at night boiling water to put in our water bottles to use as a heater in our sleeping bags.
3. Being in front of a massive glacier and watching the glacier break off which sounds like a huge thunderstorm.
4. Running into friends on the trail; Alex on day three and Shawn on day four.
5. The amount of times Ali's trekking poles prevented her natural klutziness from occurring with a big fall.
6. Hiking to the top of the French Valley and being freezing cold because of the wind. The view was clouded and after waiting an hour it finally cleared so we were surrounded by mountains and felt the sun shining down and warming us.
7. Sarah burning a hole in her glove with the camping stove.
8. The bright, yellow flowers along the trail that reminded Sarah of her cousin Jenna.
9. The times that Ali would trek ahead of Sarah, wait for Sarah, ask Sarah what she was doing and then finally Sarah would show up with a big grin on her face and have some story or incident to explain.
10. Getting to do the W trek with your best friend. :)

More magic, amazing rainbow. Always something more to see.
And like George Mallory's response when being interviewed about why he wanted to climb Mt. Everest, "because it's there," we successfully completed the W because it is here, and we loved it. This place is magical, the spiritual energy is overflowing and the healing ability of the beauty here cannot even be expressed in words. Patagonia has a very special place in our hearts and we hope to return to this place one day. We consider ourselves extremely privileged that we have been able to experience all of this natural beauty and that we get to continue on our journey.

In love and gratitude.
A & S

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